Romania: The Fortified Churches of Transylvania
Transylvania. The very word conjures up imagery of haunted castles, gloomy wooded landscapes, and, of course, tales of Count Dracula and other ghoulish horrors.
There is indeed a land called Transylvania located in the north-central part of the modern state of Romania, and yes: there was a Dracula, and you can even visit one of his several castles in the village of Bran (in actuality, many noble families occupied this beautiful castle, including the last Queen of Romania). But the Transylvania of popular culture is by and large a byproduct of a succession of films, comic books and TV shows all based on the work of Bram Stoker, author of Dracula, who never stepped foot in the country and compiled all of his research from books in libraries in England.
Instead, first-time visitors to Transylvania are often stunned by the natural beauty of the land. From the majestic peaks and ridges of the southern Carpathian Mountain ranges to its vast pine forests (the word Transylvania means "beyond the forest"), the region is quickly becoming a travel hotspot in Europe, even being listed in National Geographic’s "Destinations on the Rise" for the year 2021. But it is not simply the landscape that attracts visitors to the region, but rather, the rich cultural history of the villages and cities settled by German-speaking colonists from the time of the Middle Ages. Known as "Transylvanian Saxons" due to their arrival to the region via the district of Saxony, these resourceful and industrious pioneers founded hundreds of communities in the fertile valleys across the region, and even referred to it as Siebenbürgen, meaning "Seven Castles" in reference to their seven most prominent market towns, including four of Romania’s most prominent modern cities such as Sibiu, Brașov, Mediaș, Sighișoara, and many others. Today, these modern cities and large towns are internationally known for their picturesque Old Town districts, with towering Lutheran churches, cobblestone streets, and traditional German and western European styled architecture, indicative of the religious, communal and cultural heritage of the Saxons.
While the land was rich and beautiful, existential danger also existed in the form of wars and invasions. To protect their often isolated villages and towns, the communities built massive defensive fortifications out of their churches, which in time collectively became to be known as Fortified Churches. Often combinations of either (or both) Gothic and Romanesque architectural styles, some 150 Fortified Churches were ultimately constructed across Transylvania from the 13th to 16th century. In times of trouble, the community members would retreat behind the fortified walls of their churches and either defend themselves with weapons from the ramparts, defensive towers and steeple or simply wait out their invaders until military aid arrived or the enemy moved on. These churches also became the center of civic and cultural life, first as Catholic churches and later on as members of an autonomous Lutheran regional church. While Catholic statuary and imagery of the Virgin Mary and saints were often covered up after the Protestant Reformation, beautifully constructed triptychs, baptismal fonts and ornately decorated pews became hallmarks of Transylvanian Saxon churches, later to be joined by massive organs built by well-known artisans from central Europe. Ornate Ottoman carpets were often purchased by trade guilds or community groups, to be used as decoration and on occasion, funeral biers. In later years, wealthier, larger communities or those of regional significance would often have a clock installed in their bell tower, a particularly substantial organ, or a unique feature, such as the 19-mechanism lock on the sacristry door of the Lutheran church of Biertan, a community which also had a "Divorce Tower" made for quarreling couples considering separation to remain locked in a space with absolute minimal material possessions for a period of two weeks to work out their difficulties or proceed with divorce (it is said that in three hundred years, only one divorce occurred!).
Today, these communities have entered into decline as their members emigrated to Germany, Austria, and Switzerland in search of better economic opportunities. But the churches remain open and caretakers remain to welcome visitors to share their unique history, walk through the now-silent church courtyards and cavernous interiors, or climb to the ramparts and watchtowers to take in the extraordinary views of timeless, captivating Transylvania.
Be Not Afraid!
Good Shepherd Travel offers trips to Romania as part of their Holy Land tours. Rome, Lourdes, Fatima, Ireland, and many other destinations are among our most popular programs. For more information on how to begin preparing for a pilgrimage in late 2021 and 2022, contact Tony AbuAita at Tony@goodshepherdtravel.com. We will return to pilgrimage – and we hope to see you with us!